Anthurium clarinervium is a compact velvet-leaf anthurium. The RHS describes it as a tender, evergreen epiphytic perennial from Mexico, about 25–30 cm (10–12 in) tall. Its leaves are reflexed, deeply lobed and velvety, dark green with pale green-white veins, up to 13 cm (5 in) long on 15 cm (6 in) stalks.
Public sources specific to this species are thin. The RHS plant entry is the one species-level reference we found. Everything else here comes from guidance for the genus Anthurium, and we say so where it does. Most of that genus advice was written with the flowering flamingo flower in mind, so treat it as a starting point and watch how your plant responds.
Anthurium clarinervium care at a glance
| Factor | What the sources say | Level |
|---|---|---|
| Light | Bright, indirect light; partial shade, east or west aspect | Species (RHS) |
| Water | Freely from spring to autumn; sparingly in winter | Species (RHS) |
| Mix | 2 parts ericaceous peat-free compost, 1 part grit, 1 part orchid bark | Species (RHS) |
| Humidity | High; stand on moist gravel | Species (RHS). Above 50% (UF/IFAS, genus) |
| Temperature | Keep above 18 °C (64 °F) | Species (RHS) |
| Feeding | Orchid fertiliser every two weeks, spring to autumn | Species (RHS) |
| Propagation | Division, stem or rhizome cuttings, offsets in spring or summer | Species (RHS) |
| Pests | Mealybugs, scale insects | Species (RHS) |
| Pets | Harmful if eaten; skin and eye irritant | Species (RHS); toxic (ASPCA, genus) |
Light and position
The RHS recommends bright, indirect light, and lists partial shade with an east- or west-facing aspect. For the genus, NC State says direct sunlight can scorch the leaves, and too little light means slower growth.
UF/IFAS gives a useful pair of symptoms for the genus. Bleached leaf centers with brown tips point to excess light. Broad, dry, tan blotches point to sunburn. If you see either, move the plant back from the window or filter the light. If new leaves are slow and small, try a brighter spot that still avoids direct midday sun.
Watering
The RHS says to water freely when the plant is growing, from spring to autumn, and sparingly in winter. For the genus, NC State says to water when the soil is dry to the touch, and that rainwater or purified water is best. UF/IFAS says to let indoor anthuriums dry slightly between waterings, then water thoroughly.
Read these together. Water well, let the excess drain, and wait until the top of the mix feels dry. In winter, wait longer. Our anthurium watering guide explains how to check the mix instead of watering on a fixed day.
The RHS lists root rot from overwatering as the main disease risk for this species. Clemson Extension says infected roots are brown to black and may be soft. If the leaves droop while the mix is still wet, see overwatered anthurium.
Mix and pot
This is an epiphyte, so the roots need air as well as water. The RHS says it can be grown epiphytically, mounted rather than potted, or in an acidic potting mix of two parts ericaceous peat-free compost, one part horticultural grit and one part orchid bark. For the genus, UF/IFAS says rooting is best in well-aerated mixes of equal parts peat, perlite and bark, with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5.
A small plant needs a small pot. RHS sizes put the mature plant at 0.1–0.5 m (4–20 in) tall and across. A pot far larger than the root ball holds water the roots cannot use. Repot in spring or summer, when you can also divide the plant.
Humidity
Humidity is where velvet anthuriums differ most from a flamingo flower on a windowsill. The RHS says to maintain high humidity by standing the pot on a tray of moist gravel. For the genus, UF/IFAS says humidity should stay above 50%. Below that, it says, the leaves lose their shiny texture and may die off.
NC State says anthurium leaf tips turn brown when humidity is too low. It notes that many growers keep these plants in terraria or growing cabinets. If your room is dry and a humidifier is not practical, a cabinet or large clear case is a reasonable option for a plant this size. Our houseplant humidity guide explains how to measure your room first.
Many velvet anthuriums are sold as tissue-culture plantlets grown in very high humidity. These need a gradual move to room air; see tissue-culture anthuriums.
Temperature
The RHS says to keep A. clarinervium above 18 °C (64 °F), and rates it H1A, a plant that needs protection under glass all year. For the genus, NC State gives 18–29 °C (65–85 °F). UF/IFAS recommends keeping indoor anthuriums at 21–29 °C (70–85 °F), and says air below 13 °C (55 °F) can cause damage. UF/IFAS also says to keep plants away from draughts and from heat or cold from appliances.
Feeding
The RHS recommends an orchid fertiliser every two weeks from spring to autumn. For the genus, UF/IFAS warns that overfeeding indoors builds up soluble salts and causes leaf edge or tip injury. Clemson says white or grey crusty deposits on the mix or pot rim are a sign of salt build-up. Flush the pot with plain water if you see them, and feed less.
Cleaning the leaves
NC State recommends wiping dust off anthurium leaves periodically. UF/IFAS says misting dislodges dust and briefly raises humidity. Use a soft, damp cloth and support the leaf from below, since the velvet leaves are easy to mark.
Propagation
The RHS lists division, stem or rhizome cuttings, and offsets, in spring or summer. Division is simplest when you are already repotting: separate a section that has its own roots and at least one growing point. UF/IFAS notes that almost all commercial anthurium cultivars are now produced by tissue culture.
Problems and what to check
| What you see | Likely cause | Written guide |
|---|---|---|
| Leaves yellowing or drooping, mix still wet | Overwatering, root rot (RHS, UF/IFAS) | Overwatered anthurium |
| Brown spots or patches | Sun, salts, dry air, or leaf spot | Anthurium brown spots |
| Brown leaf tips | Low humidity (NC State) or excess fertilizer (UF/IFAS) | Anthurium problems |
| Fine pale speckling, webbing underneath | Mites (UF/IFAS, genus) | Spider mites on anthurium |
| Cottony tufts or brown bumps on stems | Mealybugs or scale (RHS) | Anthurium problems |
Is Anthurium clarinervium safe for pets?
No. The RHS lists A. clarinervium as harmful if eaten and a skin and eye irritant, and advises gloves when handling it. The ASPCA has no separate entry for this species. Its flamingo flower entry for the genus lists anthurium as toxic to dogs, cats and horses, from insoluble calcium oxalates. Signs include oral irritation, swelling of the mouth, drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. NC State gives the same toxin for the whole genus.
For other species, see our anthurium varieties guide and the anthurium hub.
References
- Royal Horticultural Society: Anthurium clarinervium
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Anthurium
- UF/IFAS Extension EP159, J. Chen et al.: Cultural Guidelines for Commercial Production of Interiorscape Anthurium
- UF/IFAS Extension FPS-42, K. Graves et al.: Anthurium spp.: Tailflower, Flamingo Flower, Anthurium
- Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC 2251: Houseplant Diseases & Disorders
- ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center: Flamingo Flower