Calatheas have a reputation for being fussy, and it is partly fair. They come from warm, humid tropical forests in Central and South America (NC State), and the average heated home is drier and less steady than that. Most problems trace back to four things: dry air, hard or fluoridated water, uneven watering, and cold drafts.
Calathea or Goeppertia?
Many plants sold as calathea now carry a different botanical name. NC State Extension explains that many species formerly classified under Calathea were moved to Goeppertia after genetic and botanical studies. It notes that the genus holds more than 200 accepted species, and that older literature still uses Calathea.
The RHS adds that plants sold under the umbrella name calathea now belong to three genera: Ctenanthe, Goeppertia and Stromanthe. Until the new names catch on, the RHS suggests looking for the calathea label when buying.
Some familiar examples: peacock plant is Goeppertia makoyana, formerly Calathea makoyana (NC State). Round-leaf calathea is Goeppertia orbifolia. Rattlesnake plant is G. insignis (RHS). All belong to the prayer plant family, Marantaceae.
The true prayer plant, Maranta leuconeura, is a close relative with slightly different needs. See our prayer plant care guide and the calathea vs maranta comparison.
Calathea care at a glance
| Factor | What the sources say |
|---|---|
| Light | Bright but indirect; north- or east-facing window in summer (RHS). Medium, indirect light (NC State) |
| Water | Evenly moist in spring and summer; let the surface dry in autumn and winter, never fully (RHS) |
| Water quality | Distilled or rainwater; fluoride browns leaves (NC State, UF/IFAS) |
| Humidity | High humidity (RHS, NC State); 40–60% relative humidity keeps plants looking good indoors (UF/IFAS) |
| Temperature | 16–21 °C (61–70 °F), away from drafts and heaters (RHS); 18–27 °C (65–80 °F) indoors (UF/IFAS) |
| Feeding | Monthly, April to September; none October to March (RHS) |
| Repotting | Every 1–2 years (NC State) or every few years once the clump fills the pot (RHS), in spring |
| Propagation | Division (RHS, NC State, UF/IFAS) |
| Pets | Non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses (ASPCA) |
Light
The RHS says calatheas grow best in a bright spot out of direct sunlight. In summer, a north- or east-facing window is ideal. In winter, when light is weaker, the RHS suggests a south-facing windowsill. Direct summer sun scorches the leaves.
NC State describes the genus as preferring medium, indirect light. UF/IFAS gives figures for indoor use: calatheas tolerate light as low as about 800 lux (75 foot-candles), but grow best at about 1,600–2,150 lux (150–200 foot-candles). The RHS warns that low light causes poor, weak growth, especially in Goeppertia.
Scorched leaves show bleached or brown patches on the side facing the window. Our calathea sunburn guide covers what to do.
Watering and water quality
The RHS advises watering moderately in spring and summer to keep the compost evenly moist. In autumn and winter, let the surface dry before rewetting, but never let the compost dry out completely. Tip away water that collects in a cover pot. Roots left standing in water rot easily.
UF/IFAS advises letting the surface of the mix dry slightly before watering. Iowa State notes that letting plants dry out too long between waterings causes brown tips and edges.
Water quality matters more for calatheas than for most houseplants. NC State recommends distilled water or rainwater, because fluoride in tap water can brown the leaves. UF/IFAS lists fluoride toxicity as the cause of dead spots near the leaf margins. University of Georgia Extension names rattlesnake plant among plants susceptible to fluorine and chlorine in water. The RHS takes a softer line: calatheas tolerate tap water left to stand for at least 24 hours so the chlorine can escape. If browning continues, switch to rainwater or distilled water, as NC State recommends.
For the details, see our calathea water sensitivity guide.
Humidity and temperature
Humidity is where most homes fall short. The RHS says calatheas enjoy high humidity and suggests a bathroom or kitchen, a tray of damp gravel, or grouping plants. NC State gives about 60% relative humidity for peacock plant and round-leaf calathea. UF/IFAS says plants keep their appearance better at 40–60% relative humidity indoors.
Iowa State notes that home humidity in winter may be only 10–20%. It recommends a humidifier, grouping plants or a pebble tray. It also says misting is not an effective way to raise humidity, because leaves dry quickly.
The RHS recommends 16–21 °C (61–70 °F) and steady conditions, away from drafts, fires and radiators. NC State gives 18–24 °C (65–75 °F). UF/IFAS warns that exposure below 13 °C (55 °F) may cause chilling injury.
Mix, repotting and feeding
The RHS recommends repotting every few years, once the clump has filled the pot, in spring or summer. Use a free-draining, moisture-retentive mix, such as multipurpose compost with about ten per cent grit. Choose a pot one or two sizes larger. NC State suggests repotting every 1–2 years in spring.
Feed once a month from April to September with a balanced liquid fertilizer, and not at all from October to March (RHS). NC State recommends half-strength fertilizer during the growing season only. UF/IFAS links leaf tip and edge browning to excess fertilizer, so feed lightly.
Dust slows photosynthesis on the large leaves. NC State suggests wiping them with a soft, damp cloth.
Propagation
Calatheas are propagated by division. The RHS says to divide the clump in spring, cutting the root ball into sections with several leaves each. Keep the divisions warm, humid and moist until growth resumes. UF/IFAS notes that each piece needs at least one leaf. A single detached leaf will not grow into a new plant.
Leaf movement is normal
Calatheas fold their leaves upward at night and open them again in the morning. NC State and the RHS call this nyctinasty. It is a sign of a working plant, not a problem. Leaves that stay curled during the day are a different matter. See our calathea leaf movement guide.
Problems and what to check
| What you see | Likely cause | What to check or do |
|---|---|---|
| Brown tips and edges | Low humidity (RHS); drying out between waterings (Iowa State) | Raise humidity; water before the mix dries fully |
| Dead spots along the margins | Fluoride toxicity (UF/IFAS, NC State) | Switch to rainwater or distilled water |
| Edge browning after feeding | Excess fertilizer (UF/IFAS) | Flush the pot with plain water; feed at half strength |
| Leaves curling by day | Dry mix, dry air, heat or root damage | See calathea curling leaves |
| Whole plant drooping | Dry mix or damaged roots | See calathea drooping |
| Yellowing leaves | Low fertilizer, overwatering or too much light (UF/IFAS) | Check the mix and position first |
| Water-soaked patches in winter | Oedema from wet compost (RHS) | Water less in winter |
| Speckled, silvery leaves, fine webbing | Spider mites (RHS) | Inspect leaf undersides; see our pest guide |
UF/IFAS lists wilting from drought stress or root pathogens, and advises checking the roots. Clemson Extension notes that brown tips can also follow hot, dry air and salt build-up, and suggests leaching the pot periodically. If you grow round-leaf calathea, see our Calathea orbifolia care guide and its yellow leaves guide.
Are calatheas safe for pets?
Yes. The ASPCA lists Calathea species as non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses. That makes them a good choice for a home with pets, if you can give them the humidity they need. See our pet-safe plants guide for more options.
References
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Goeppertia
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Goeppertia makoyana
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Goeppertia orbifolia
- Royal Horticultural Society: Calathea growing guide
- UF/IFAS Extension, J. Chen and D. B. McConnell: Cultural Guidelines for Commercial Production of Interiorscape Calathea (ENH1030)
- Iowa State University Extension and Outreach: Diagnosing Houseplant Problems from Improper Environmental Conditions
- Iowa State University Extension and Outreach: How can I raise the relative humidity indoors for my houseplants?
- University of Georgia Extension, B1318: Growing Indoor Plants with Success
- Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC 2251: Houseplant Diseases & Disorders
- ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center: Calathea