Plant care guide

Calathea Orbifolia Care: Light, Water, Humidity and Problems

Updated

How do you care for a Calathea orbifolia?

Calathea orbifolia, now Goeppertia orbifolia, needs bright indirect light, mix that stays evenly moist but never soggy, high humidity and steady warmth. Most of its problems trace back to dry air, uneven watering, hard or fluoridated water, or direct sun.

What to do first

Place it in bright light out of direct sun, water when the surface of the mix starts to dry, use rainwater or distilled water, raise humidity, and keep it at 18–24 °C (65–75 °F) away from drafts.

Calathea orbifolia is grown for its broad, round leaves striped in silver-green. It has a reputation for being fussy. In practice it wants a few conditions held steady, and it shows quickly when one of them slips.

The plant is now classified as Goeppertia orbifolia. NC State Extension lists Calathea orbifolia and Calathea rotundifolia among its former names. The RHS notes that most plants sold as calathea have moved to Goeppertia, Ctenanthe or Stromanthe.

Quick Profile

Goeppertia orbifolia
OriginRainforests of eastern Brazil
Size indoors61–91 cm (2–3 ft) tall, 30–61 cm (1–2 ft) wide
LeavesRound, up to 30 cm (12 in) wide
LightBright indirect light or partial shade
WaterConsistently moist, never wet or soggy
HumidityAt least 60% (NC State)
Temperature18–24 °C (65–75 °F), without sudden changes
FeedingMonthly in the growing season
PetsASPCA lists calathea as non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses

Figures come from the NC State Goeppertia orbifolia profile unless noted.

Light

NC State recommends bright, indirect light or partial shade. The RHS calathea guide suggests a bright spot out of direct sunlight. In summer that means a north- or east-facing window; in winter a south-facing sill can work when the sun is lower.

UF/IFAS Extension’s Calathea guide gives an optimal indoor light level of 150–200 foot-candles (about 1,600–2,150 lux). Calatheas tolerate as little as 75 foot-candles (roughly 800 lux), but that is a floor, not a target.

Direct sun bleaches and scorches the leaves. If patches appear on the window side, move the plant back from the glass.

Watering

NC State says the mix should stay consistently moist but not wet or soggy. UF/IFAS advises letting the surface of the mix dry slightly before watering. Check with a finger rather than a calendar.

In winter, the RHS suggests letting the surface dry before rewetting, but never letting the compost dry out completely. Roots left standing in water can rot, so empty saucers and outer pots after watering.

Water quality matters for this species. NC State recommends distilled water or rainwater, because fluoride in tap water can brown the leaf tips. Our tap water guide explains how to check whether your supply is the problem.

Humidity

NC State calls for humidity of at least 60%, raised with a humidifier or a tray of wet pebbles. UF/IFAS states that calatheas keep their appearance better indoors at 40–60%. The sources differ on the target, but both rule out dry air.

Iowa State Extension notes home humidity can fall to 10–20 percent in winter. Its humidity advice favors humidifiers, grouping plants and pebble trays. It does not recommend misting, because foliage dries quickly and misting would be needed several times a day.

A hygrometer beside the plant shows what the leaves actually experience. Our humidity guide covers placement and maintenance.

Temperature

NC State recommends a consistent 18–24 °C (65–75 °F) and warns against cold drafts and temperature swings. The RHS gives 16–21 °C (61–70 °F). Keep the plant away from radiators, heating vents, air conditioners and cold windows at night.

UF/IFAS advises keeping calatheas above 13 °C (55 °F) in transit, since lower temperatures may cause chilling injury. Keep it above that at home too, including on a cold windowsill at night.

Potting Mix, Feeding and Repotting

NC State recommends a moist, well-drained, slightly acidic potting mix. Commercial growers use soilless blends of peat, pine bark, vermiculite or perlite at a pH around 6.0, according to UF/IFAS.

Feed monthly during the growing season. The RHS suggests a balanced fertilizer from April to September. Stop in winter, when growth slows. Overfeeding can brown leaf margins, so do not increase the dose to push growth.

The RHS suggests repotting every few years in spring or summer, using peat-free compost. Choose a pot with a drainage hole.

Cleaning and Division

Broad orbifolia leaves collect dust. NC State notes dust can interfere with photosynthesis and recommends wiping leaves gently with a damp cloth.

Propagate by division in spring. The RHS suggests cutting the rootball into sections, each with several leaves.

Common Problems

SymptomWhere to look first
Brown tips and edgesLow humidity (the RHS’s usual cause), fluoride or salts
Curling leavesDry mix or dry air; see the calathea curling leaves guide
DroopingDry mix, or wet mix with damaged roots; see the calathea drooping guide
Yellowing leavesOverwatering, too little fertilizer or too much light (UF/IFAS)
Speckled, yellowing or silvery leavesRed spider mite (RHS); check leaf undersides
Water-soaked patchesOedema from compost that is too wet (RHS)

Leaves that rise at night and open in the morning are normal. The RHS describes this as the nyctinastic habit that gives prayer plants their name.

For more on the plant, see the calathea orbifolia hub and our Calathea and Goeppertia care guide.

Other calathea orbifolia problems we cover: curling leaves, yellow leaves.

References

How this guide was put together: NC State Extension, UF/IFAS Extension, Iowa State University Extension, RHS and ASPCA guidance.

Other Calathea Orbifolia problems

Knowledge record: GR-0451