Chinese evergreen has a deserved reputation for toughness. Clemson Extension calls it one of the most durable houseplants and says it tolerates poor light, dry air, air conditioning and drought. When one does struggle, the cause is usually one of three things: a pot that stays wet, cold air, or a coloured cultivar kept too dark.

This guide covers Aglaonema, the genus sold as Chinese evergreen, Philippine evergreen or simply aglaonema. NC State Extension describes it as an herbaceous perennial in the arum family (Araceae), native to tropical and subtropical Southeast Asia and New Guinea. UF/IFAS counts 26 species in the genus, plus many cultivars.

Chinese evergreen care at a glance

FactorWhat the sources say
LightLow to moderate indirect light; no direct sun (Clemson). Coloured cultivars need bright indirect light (UF/IFAS)
WaterKeep moist but not too wet; water when the top 2.5–5 cm (1–2 in) is dry (Clemson). Water less in winter (NC State)
Temperature20–27 °C (68–80 °F) is best; avoid below 13 °C (55 °F) (Clemson)
HumidityPrefers moderate humidity; tolerates low humidity (Clemson)
Mix and potSoilless mix with extra humus, in a pot with drainage holes (Clemson)
FeedingOnly while actively growing; too much fertilizer burns leaf edges (Illinois, Clemson)
Size30–90 cm (1–3 ft) tall and wide; slow-growing (Clemson, UF/IFAS)
PropagationDivision, stem or tip cuttings, air layering (Clemson, NC State)
PetsToxic to dogs, cats and horses (ASPCA)

Light: match the spot to the leaf colour

The amount of light a Chinese evergreen needs depends mostly on its leaves. Clemson Extension says solid green cultivars will grow in low light. Variegated types, with silver, cream, pink or red markings, need low to moderate light, which Clemson defines as bright and indirect. UF/IFAS adds that high-colour selections need bright indirect light to keep their colour, while green and silver forms do well in low-light settings.

University of Missouri Extension notes that Aglaonema modestum can tolerate light as low as about 110 lux (10 foot-candles). Tolerating a dim corner is not the same as growing in it. Missouri lists the signs of too little light: stretched stems between leaves, smaller new leaves, pale growth, and lower leaves that yellow and drop.

Direct sun is the other limit. UF/IFAS warns that the plant will scorch in too sunny a spot, and Clemson says it does not like direct sun on its foliage. Illinois Extension suggests shadowless light, such as a north window. For a room-by-room comparison, see our plants for dark rooms guide.

Watering: moist, never soggy

Clemson Extension advises keeping the soil constantly moist but not too wet, and watering once the top 2.5–5 cm (1–2 in) is dry. Its test is simple: push two fingers into the top 5 cm (2 in). Dry means water. Cold and damp means wait.

NC State recommends keeping the mix moist from spring to fall and reducing watering in winter. UF/IFAS says the soil can dry slightly for a few days before watering, and warns that overwatering leads to root rot and yellow leaves. Oklahoma State lists leaf spot, blight, stem rot and root rot as problems when plants are overwatered or kept too cold.

A routine that fits all four sources:

  1. Check the top 5 cm (2 in) of mix with your fingers.
  2. If it is dry, water until it drains from the bottom of the pot.
  3. Empty the saucer or decorative outer pot.
  4. Use room-temperature water. Clemson advises against water that is too hot or too cold.
  5. In winter, and in dim rooms, expect longer gaps between waterings.

Temperature and cold damage

Chinese evergreen is a tropical plant, and cold is the problem people most often miss. Clemson gives 20–27 °C (68–80 °F) as the preferred range and says to avoid temperatures below 13 °C (55 °F). It also notes sensitivity to chilling below 10 °C (50 °F). UF/IFAS says temperatures below 7 °C (45 °F) can injure the foliage.

A UF/IFAS study of chilling injury in Aglaonema describes the symptom clearly. Dark, greasy-looking patches appeared between the midvein and leaf margin about two days after plants were chilled at 2, 7 or 13 °C (35, 45 or 55 °F) for a day. Mature and older leaves were far more sensitive than young ones. Cultivars also differed: ‘Silver Queen’ was injured at 13 °C (55 °F), while ‘Emerald Star’, ‘Stars’ and ‘Jewel of India’ showed no injury at 2 °C (35 °F).

The practical point: keep the plant away from cold glass, exterior doors and air-conditioning vents. Injured patches will not turn green again. Badly damaged leaves may yellow and fall.

Humidity, mix and repotting

Clemson says most Chinese evergreens grow well in an average house with low to moderate humidity. NC State notes they prefer high humidity but tolerate drier air. You do not need a humidifier for this plant, but avoid placing it in the hot, dry air above a radiator.

For potting, Clemson recommends a commercial soilless mix with extra humus, in a container with drainage holes. Illinois Extension notes the plant can even be grown in water.

Feeding

Feed only while the plant is actively growing. Illinois Extension says most houseplants need fertilizer no more than every 1–3 months between March and September, and very little in winter. It also warns that plants in dim light are easily damaged by too much fertilizer. Clemson lists leaf edge burn as a sign of excess fertilizer. UF/IFAS rates the plant’s salt tolerance as poor, so flush the pot with plain water every few months.

Propagation and leggy plants

NC State notes that Chinese evergreen tends to get leggy with age as the stem lengthens. Clemson lists division, stem cuttings, tip cuttings, air layering and seed as propagation methods. When the lower stem is bare, Clemson says the top can be removed and rooted. Illinois Extension suggests tip cuttings or air layering once stems become too long.

For a clump with several stems, division is the simplest option. Ease the plant out of its pot, separate stems with roots attached, and pot each piece in fresh mix. Wear gloves: NC State says the sap contains calcium oxalate crystals that can irritate skin.

Leaf problems and what to check

What you seeLikely causeWhat to check or do
Dark, greasy patches between midvein and edgeChilling injury (UF/IFAS)Move away from cold windows, doors and vents; keep above 13 °C (55 °F)
Yellow leaves, mix wet for daysOverwatering and root rot (UF/IFAS, Clemson)Check roots; see our root rot guide
Brown leaf edgesExcess fertilizer (Clemson); salt build-up (UF/IFAS, Clemson HGIC 2251)Flush the pot with plain water; feed less
Bleached or scorched patchesDirect sun (UF/IFAS)Move out of direct sun; scorched tissue will not recover
Coloured cultivar fading, pale new leavesToo little light (UF/IFAS, Missouri)Move it to bright indirect light
Cottony white clusters, sticky leavesMealybugs or scales (Clemson)Inspect leaf bases; see our pest treatment guide
White powdery coatingPowdery mildew in high humidity (Clemson)Improve air movement; remove badly affected leaves

University of Maryland Extension describes root rot as yellowing, browning and dieback of leaves, with brown to black, soft roots. If you find that, cut away the rotten roots and repot in fresh, sterile mix. Clemson notes that houseplant root rot usually follows a mix that drains slowly or too-frequent watering.

Clemson also lists mites and aphids among the pests to watch for. Inspect leaf undersides before treating anything.

Is Chinese evergreen safe for pets?

No. The ASPCA lists Chinese evergreen as toxic to dogs, cats and horses. The toxic principle is insoluble calcium oxalates. Clinical signs include oral irritation, pain and swelling of the mouth, tongue and lips, excessive drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. NC State rates the poison severity as low and lists all parts of the plant. Keep it out of reach, or choose a pet-safe plant from our pet-safe plants guide.

Comparing low-light options? See dracaena vs Chinese evergreen.

References