Plant care guide
Bird of Paradise Not Blooming: Age, Light, Pot or Feeding?
Updated
Why is my Bird of paradise not blooming?
A bird of paradise that will not flower is usually too young, in too little light, or recovering from being divided or repotted into a large pot. Too much fertilizer, too little feeding and a winter without cooler nights can also hold flowers back.
What to do first
Find out how old the plant is and when it was last divided. Then give it the sunniest spot you have, keep it slightly pot-bound at the same planting depth, and feed in spring and summer at label rates without overdoing it.
Waiting years for a bird of paradise to flower is a test of patience. The plant is not broken. Flowering in Strelitzia reginae depends on age, light and a settled root system more than on any single trick. Work through the checks below in order.
Our bird of paradise care guide gives the short version. This page goes further into each cause.
1. Is the plant old enough?
The sources agree that young plants do not flower:
| How the plant started | Time to flowering |
|---|---|
| Division | Two to three years (Clemson); one to two years (UF/IFAS MG106) |
| Seed | Four to ten years or more (Clemson); three to five years (UF/IFAS MG106) |
Clemson Extension gives the first figures (Clemson HGIC 1562). UF/IFAS Extension gives the second (UF/IFAS MG106). The RHS simply says plants may take a few years to bloom (RHS: Strelitzia reginae).
If you do not know its age, count from the date you bought it, and check the label for whether it was grown from seed.
2. Is there enough light?
The RHS says plants flower only with adequate light and feed. Clemson says bird of paradise prefers full sun but tolerates the lower light of a south-facing window. NC State Extension recommends a well-lit, sunny spot indoors (NC State: Strelitzia reginae).
Iowa State University Extension says indoor plants will not bloom without adequate light, and suggests a brighter window or supplemental light (Iowa State: environmental problems). A summer outdoors also helps. NC State says to move the plant to a sunny or semi-shaded spot once temperatures rise above 21 °C (70 °F). Acclimate it gradually so the leaves do not scorch.
3. Was it divided, repotted or planted too deep?
UF/IFAS FPS-563 says plants seem to flower more freely when crowded and are best left undisturbed (UF/IFAS FPS-563). The RHS agrees that plants generally flower better when slightly pot-bound.
So a recent move into a much bigger pot, or a recent split, can hold flowering back. UF/IFAS MG106 adds that planting too deeply may delay flowering. When you repot, keep the top of the root ball at the same level it was growing before.
The RHS suggests top dressing every year and repotting only every second year. That keeps the roots fed without disturbing them.
4. How are you feeding it?
Feeding cuts both ways:
- Too much: Clemson says overfertilizing leads to excessive foliage with little or no flowering.
- Too little: Iowa State says houseplants not fed during spring and summer will not bloom as well. UF/IFAS MG106 says the plant needs fertilization for best growth and flowering.
Clemson suggests feeding every two weeks in spring and weekly in summer, with none in autumn or winter. The RHS suggests a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly during growth. Follow your product’s label. Lots of large new leaves and no buds suggests you are overfeeding.
5. Does it get a cooler winter?
Iowa State notes that some houseplants need a seasonal or day-to-night temperature drop to flower. Clemson gives 18–21 °C (65–70 °F) by day and 10–13 °C (50–55 °F) at night. NC State gives night temperatures of 13–18 °C (55–65 °F). A plant kept warm day and night beside a heater misses that drop. Keep it well above freezing; UF/IFAS says freezing temperatures damage developing buds and flowers.
6. Are you looking at the right time?
Clemson says flowers open in succession from late winter or early spring, usually one to three per stalk. NC State and UF/IFAS say the plant blooms intermittently through the year. UF/IFAS MG106 notes that more flowers form along the outside of the clump, so look around the edges for new spathes.
A quick plan
- Move the plant to your sunniest window or under a strong grow light.
- Leave it in its current pot unless roots are rotting or it is tipping over.
- Feed in spring and summer at label rates; stop in autumn and winter.
- Let winter nights run cooler, away from heaters and frost.
- Water less in winter, as NC State and the RHS advise.
If leaves are yellowing or the mix stays wet, fix the roots first with our root rot guide. More pages are on the bird of paradise hub.
Related guides
Other bird of paradise problems we cover: curling leaves, drooping, brown spots, overwatering, yellow leaves.
References
- Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC 1562: Bird of Paradise
- RHS: Strelitzia reginae
- UF/IFAS Extension MG106: Bird-of-Paradise
- UF/IFAS Extension FPS-563: Strelitzia reginae, Bird of Paradise
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Strelitzia reginae
- Iowa State University Extension: Diagnosing Houseplant Problems from Improper Environmental Conditions
How this guide was put together: Clemson Cooperative Extension, RHS, UF/IFAS Extension, NC State Extension and Iowa State University Extension guidance.