‘Silver Dragon’ is sold as a cultivar of Alocasia baginda, named for its silvery leaves. It can seem touchy. Most of that comes down to three things: compost that stays wet, dry air, and a winter rest that owners mistake for dying.
We found no extension profile written for ‘Silver Dragon’ itself. NC State lists a close relative, A. baginda ‘Dragon Scale’, as a rare, compact plant with thick, textured, silvery-green, arrow-shaped leaves and dark green veins. The RHS lists another, A. baginda ‘Pink Dragon’, and gives its growing conditions. The rest of this guide uses advice for the genus Alocasia from NC State and the RHS, and we say so.
Silver Dragon care at a glance
| Factor | What the sources say | Level |
|---|---|---|
| Light | Bright but indirect; strong sun scorches | Genus (RHS) |
| Water | When the top 5 cm (2 in) is dry, April to October; minimal in winter | Genus (RHS) |
| Mix | Peat-free houseplant compost, about 3 parts to 1 part grit | Genus (RHS) |
| Humidity | Medium to high in the growing season | Genus (RHS) |
| Temperature | Above 16 °C (60 °F) in growth; above 10 °C (50 °F) in winter | Genus (RHS) |
| Feeding | General liquid fertiliser, April to October | Genus (RHS) |
| Propagation | Offsets or division | Genus (NC State, RHS) |
| Pests | Spider mites; also aphids and mealybugs | Genus (NC State) |
| Pets | Toxic to dogs, cats and horses | Genus (ASPCA) |
Light
The RHS says to position alocasias in bright but indirect light, and warns that strong sunlight scorches the leaves. Growth slows in lower light. NC State lists dappled sunlight or partial shade. NC State also says yellowing leaves can come from inadequate light, as well as from too much or too little water.
The RHS suggests turning the plant slightly at each watering so it does not lean towards the light. Thick, silvery leaves mark easily, so filter a sunny window rather than putting the plant in direct rays.
Watering
The RHS rule is to water as needed from April to October, once the top 5 cm (2 in) of compost has dried. During winter dormancy, it says to reduce watering to a minimum. Its list of things to avoid puts overwatering, especially in winter, first among the causes of root rot.
NC State says root rot and leaf spots can follow overwatering. Clemson Extension describes rotten roots as brown to black and possibly soft, with wilting above. The pattern to watch for is a plant that droops while the compost is still damp. That points to the roots, not thirst. Our Alocasia Frydek drooping guide walks through the same checks for a related plant.
Mix and pot
The RHS recommends peat-free houseplant compost, or peat-free multi-purpose compost with horticultural grit added, at about three parts compost to one part grit. For the genus, NC State describes a preference for slightly acidic, moist but well-drained, humus-rich soil.
Pot size matters for a compact plant. The RHS says to go only about 5 cm (2 in) wider each time, to avoid overpotting. Repot in spring, every couple of years or when roots fill the pot. Set the root ball just below the compost surface.
Humidity
The RHS says alocasias like medium to high humidity through the growing season, and notes that home air is often very dry. Its suggestions:
- Stand the pot on a tray of gravel or clay granules, with water just below the surface.
- Keep the plant in a bathroom.
- Mist the leaves.
- Group several plants together.
- Use a humidifier.
The RHS says low humidity can brown the leaf edges and may attract red spider mites, which thrive in dry air. Our alocasia humidity guide covers a practical indoor setup.
Temperature
The RHS says to keep alocasias above 16 °C (60 °F) from spring to autumn, and above 10 °C (50 °F) at all times. Keep them out of cold draughts, especially in winter. The RHS entry for A. baginda ‘Pink Dragon’ gives a higher floor: keep above 15 °C (59 °F) with high humidity. NC State says the genus grows best where daytime temperatures run 20–25 °C (68–77 °F).
Winter rest
Alocasias slow down in winter. The RHS says to give them cooler, drier conditions, still above 10 °C (50 °F), so they can go dormant. It notes they may lose some foliage then, and will produce fresh leaves when they come back into growth in spring.
A resting plant is not the same as a rotting one. Before you decide it is dormant, check that the base and roots are firm. Our alocasia care guide explains how to tell the difference.
Feeding
The RHS recommends a general liquid fertiliser during the growing season, from April to October, at the dose on the label. The ‘Pink Dragon’ entry suggests every two to three weeks from spring to autumn. Do not feed a resting plant. Clemson says crusty white or grey deposits on the compost or pot rim show salt build-up, which browns leaf tips. Flush the pot with plain water if you see them.
Propagation
NC State recommends division for alocasias, and notes that offsets can be divided. The RHS describes two methods:
- Offsets. In spring, separate any offsets, slicing down with a knife and keeping as much root as possible.
- Division. In late spring or early summer, divide the fleshy rhizome and pot up the pieces in warmth and good light.
Our alocasia corm and pup propagation guide covers the steps, including the small corms found in the root ball.
Problems and what to check
| What you see | Likely cause | Written guide |
|---|---|---|
| Fine stippling, webbing at leaf joints | Spider mites (NC State, RHS) | Alocasia Polly spider mites |
| Brown spots | Wet roots, leaf spot, sun scorch or dry air | Alocasia brown spots |
| Brown, crisp leaf edges | Low humidity (RHS) | Alocasia humidity |
| Yellow leaves | Overwatering, too little water, or low light (NC State) | Alocasia Frydek yellow leaves |
| Drooping in damp compost | Root rot (RHS, NC State) | Alocasia Frydek drooping |
| Leaves lost in winter, firm base | Dormancy (RHS) | Alocasia care guide |
NC State also says to monitor for aphids and mealybugs. The RHS lists glasshouse red spider mite and mealybugs for A. baginda ‘Pink Dragon’.
Is Alocasia Silver Dragon safe for pets?
No. The ASPCA lists Alocasia species as toxic to dogs, cats and horses. The toxin is insoluble calcium oxalates. Signs include oral irritation, pain and swelling of the mouth, tongue and lips, excessive drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. NC State rates the genus’s poison severity as medium. The RHS lists A. baginda cultivars as toxic if eaten and a skin and eye irritant, and recommends gloves when handling the leaves. See the alocasia hub for more.
References
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Alocasia
- Royal Horticultural Society: How to grow alocasia
- Royal Horticultural Society: Alocasia baginda ‘Pink Dragon’
- Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC 2251: Houseplant Diseases & Disorders
- ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center: Alocasia