A Monstera deliciosa does not need a moss pole to stay alive. It does need something to lean on as it grows. NC State Extension says sturdy support is necessary to prevent the stems from breaking. Missouri Botanical Garden adds that without support the plant tends to grow horizontally.

A moss pole is the support most growers pick, because it gives the aerial roots something to grow into. Whether it also gives you bigger, holey leaves depends on light and the age of the plant as much as on the pole.

Why a Monstera climbs

NC State describes Monstera deliciosa as a climbing vine. In its native habitat it starts life on the ground and turns epiphytic once it reaches a sturdy tree to climb.

University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension describes the young plants in more detail. Seedlings grow toward the darkest area until they meet a tree, then grow upward. Their leaves are small, without lobes or holes, and overlap up the trunk. As the plant climbs, it produces long aerial roots that attach to branches and trunks.

The RHS makes the link to houseplants plain. The stems produce roots that attach to trees and support the climb. Indoors, a moss-covered pole the stems can root into does the same job.

Does a moss pole make bigger leaves with holes?

The sources point the same way, with different emphasis.

SourceWhat it says
RHSOnce a plant is climbing, it often produces larger, more mature leaves with more holes
RHSHoles usually appear only once plants are a few years old; in very low light, leaves tend to have fewer holes
NC StateOnly mature leaves have holes, and the holes develop as the leaf grows
WisconsinThe plant will not develop leaf perforations when light is inadequate
WisconsinAmple root room in a fertile mix promotes larger leaf growth

So a pole helps, but it is not the switch. A young plant in a dim corner will keep making solid leaves whatever it climbs. An existing solid leaf will not develop holes later.

If your main question is why the leaves have no holes, our Monstera no fenestration guide works through age and light in detail.

Choosing a support

SupportWhat it offersSource
Moss poleHolds the plant upright; stems root into it if the moss is kept moistRHS
Wooden slat wrapped in sphagnum mossHome-made moss support for aerial roots, tied on with fishing line or nylon threadWisconsin
Tree-bark supportA surface for aerial roots to attach toWisconsin
Pole or trellisSupports the climbing habitMissouri Botanical Garden

A plain stake or trellis meets NC State’s need for sturdy support. A moss-covered one also gives the aerial roots somewhere to grip and take up water.

How to set one up

  1. Do it when you repot. The RHS says Monstera can usually stay in its original pot for a year or two, then needs repotting every few years. Fitting a support then avoids a second disturbance.
  2. Choose a heavy pot. The RHS warns that the plant becomes top-heavy and suggests a pot weighty enough not to topple.
  3. Keep the pot size modest. The RHS says to go only a few centimetres larger. A much bigger pot keeps the compost wet too long and risks root rot.
  4. Sink the support into the pot. Wisconsin describes a support sunk into the pot. Set it behind the main stem before you fill around the roots.
  5. Tie the stem, not the leaves. The RHS says the plant benefits from being trained or tied onto the pole. Tie loosely around the main stem with soft ties and loosen them as it thickens.
  6. Guide aerial roots onto the moss. Press them against the pole so they can grow into it.
  7. Keep the moss moist. Wisconsin says to water the moss-covered support so the aerial roots can obtain water and nutrients.

Watch the water in the pot

Water from a wet pole drains into the pot. NC State says to water thoroughly, then let the top quarter to one-third of the mix dry between waterings. The RHS says to let the compost become almost dry before watering, and never leave the pot in a saucer of water.

Wisconsin notes that the leaves will “sweat” if the growing medium is too moist. If that happens, it says to reduce watering to prevent root rot. Our Monstera watering guide covers how to check.

What to do with aerial roots

Aerial roots are normal on a Monstera, and you have options. Missouri Botanical Garden says:

  • Lower aerial roots can be rooted into the soil to help nourish the plant.
  • Upper aerial roots can be attached to a moss-like climbing pole or simply removed.

Wisconsin adds that the tough roots grow downward from the stem and will root if they reach the ground. For propagation, it suggests cutting the stem tip just below an aerial root and potting the cutting.

Light still decides leaf size

A pole cannot make up for weak light. Wisconsin says Monstera does best in bright light in summer and direct sun in winter. NC State prefers moderate brightness but not direct sunlight. The RHS suggests indirect light near a west- or east-facing window, and warns that direct sun can scorch the leaves.

University of Missouri Extension lists the signs of a plant short of light: long stretches of stem between leaves, smaller-than-normal leaves, pale stems and foliage, and yellowing lower leaves. If your Monstera shows these, move it closer to a window before adding a pole. See our leggy Monstera guide.

When the plant outgrows the pole

The RHS says you can prune a Monstera back in spring if it gets too large. It warns that new stems will produce smaller, less mature leaves with fewer holes until the plant settles again. Wisconsin notes that container plants need frequent repotting to make room for the roots.

Wear gloves when you work on it. NC State lists needle-like calcium oxalate crystals as the toxic principle and says contact with the sap may irritate skin. It notes the plant is a problem for cats, dogs and horses.

For everyday care, see our Monstera deliciosa care guide.

References