Plant care guide
Monstera Leaves Without Holes: Age, Light or Support?
Updated · First published
Why are my Monstera deliciosa leaves not splitting?
Solid Monstera deliciosa leaves usually mean the plant is still producing juvenile leaves, or it is not getting enough light to make mature ones. Only mature leaves develop holes, and they form while the leaf grows.
What to do first
Check whether the plant is young, then give it brighter indirect light and a sturdy, moss-covered support it can climb. Judge the result on the next new leaves, not the old ones.
A Monstera deliciosa with solid leaves is usually not sick. NC State Extension’s plant profile says only mature leaves have holes, and the holes develop as the leaf grows. So a solid leaf points to one of two things: the plant is still young, or it lacks the light to make mature leaves.
An existing solid leaf will not develop holes later. Every check below is about the leaves still to come.
Check 1: Is the plant still juvenile?
University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension’s Monstera article describes young plants as having small leaves without lobes or holes. Mature plants develop leathery leaves with deep clefts and oblong perforations.
Signs you are looking at juvenile growth:
- Small, heart-shaped leaves with smooth edges
- A thin stem with leaves close together
- A recently bought small plant or a rooted cutting from young growth
If the plant is young and each new leaf is a little larger than the last, it is developing normally. Keep conditions steady and wait.
Check 2: Is the light too weak?
Light is the factor you can change most. The Wisconsin article states that Monstera will not develop leaf perforations when light is inadequate. It recommends bright light in summer and direct sun in winter. NC State suggests moderate brightness but not direct sunlight, so keep it out of harsh summer sun.
University of Missouri Extension’s guide to lighting indoor houseplants lists the signs of a plant short of light:
- Long stretches of stem between leaves
- Leaves smaller than normal
- Pale stems and foliage
- Lower leaves that yellow and drop
Missouri also warns that the human eye is a poor judge of light, because it adjusts to dim rooms. A spot that looks bright to you may be too dim for the plant. A light meter can help you compare spots, but treat readings as a guide.
If your Monstera shows these signs, see our leggy Monstera guide.
Check 3: Does it have something to climb?
NC State describes Monstera deliciosa as a climbing vine. In the wild it starts on the ground and becomes epiphytic once it reaches a sturdy tree to climb. NC State adds that sturdy support is needed to stop the stems breaking.
The Wisconsin article recommends a tree-bark or strong, moss-covered support sunk into the pot for the aerial roots to attach to. Sphagnum moss wrapped around a wooden slat works. It also advises watering the moss so the aerial roots can take up water and nutrients.
A support alone will not create holes. It gives the stem stability and the aerial roots somewhere to grip. Light still drives leaf size. Our moss pole article covers setup.
What to do
- Look at the newest leaf. Compare its size and shape with the two before it.
- Move the plant closer to a bright window. Missouri notes that east and west windows suit many plants that need medium light. Keep it out of strong direct summer sun, as NC State advises.
- Add light if the room is dim. For fluorescent fixtures, Missouri suggests keeping plant tips 15–30 cm (6–12 in) from the tubes. It suggests 12–14 hours a day if the plant also gets some window light. For LED fixtures, follow the maker’s spacing guidance.
- Install a support behind the main stem. Tie the stem loosely with soft ties and guide aerial roots onto the moss.
- Keep growing conditions steady. NC State gives a warm range of 16–29 °C (60–85 °F). Water thoroughly, then let the top quarter to third of the mix dry. Wisconsin notes the plant does not grow below 10 °C (50 °F) and advises regular feeding from spring until fall.
What to expect next
Holes appear only on leaves that form after conditions improve. Watch for larger new leaves and shorter gaps between them, the reverse of Missouri’s low-light signs.
Do not cut holes into solid leaves or remove healthy green leaves. Those leaves feed the new growth you are waiting for.
If new leaves keep getting smaller in good light, look at the roots. Our slow growth and root rot guides cover the next checks. The Monstera hub lists our other pages.
References
How this guide was put together: NC State Extension, University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension, and University of Missouri Extension guidance.