Plant care guide
Monstera Root Rot: How to Confirm It and What to Cut
Updated · First published
Why does my Monstera deliciosa have root rot?
Monstera root rot shows as wilting or yellowing even though the mix is wet, with brown or black, soft roots that pull apart. It follows mix that stays wet too long. Plants with some firm roots can be cut back and repotted; plants with few left are better restarted from a healthy stem cutting with a node.
What to do first
Stop watering, unpot the plant and sort firm roots from mushy ones. Cut out the rot, repot into fresh, sterile, well-draining mix in a clean pot that is not oversized, and water again only when the top of the mix has dried.
Root rot is the Monstera problem people fear most, and it is worth checking properly before acting. The leaves only hint at it. The roots confirm it.
The UConn Monstera factsheet says Monstera is prone to root diseases, especially in colder seasons. Overwatering is the usual cause in houseplants, though drought stress can also damage roots and leave them open to disease.
Why wet mix suffocates roots is covered in our Monstera root oxygen guide. This page is about diagnosing and treating the rot itself.
Signs that point to root rot
- Wilting while the mix is still wet. UW–Madison Extension’s root rot article says this is often how gardeners first notice it.
- Yellowing, browning, dieback and poor growth. University of Maryland Extension’s root rot page lists these.
- A dark or soft stem at soil level. UConn notes stems can be girdled at the soil line by rotting tissue.
- A sour or bad smell from the pot. UW–Madison mentions odor from rotted roots.
A dry, light pot with wilting leaves points the other way, toward thirst. Check before you change anything.
Confirm it at the roots
Slide the plant out of the pot. Support the main stem, because large Monstera stems are heavy.
| Root condition | What it means |
|---|---|
| Firm, light-colored roots | Healthy (Maryland Extension’s diagnosis table) |
| Brown or black, soft or mushy roots | Rot |
| Outer skin slides off, leaving a thin thread | Rot (Maryland describes this for Pythium) |
| Most of the root mass stays behind in the pot | Advanced rot |
Maryland Extension notes that Phytophthora can also turn the lower stem black or brown and mushy. You cannot name the organism by eye. The treatment below is the same either way.
What to do
If some roots are still firm:
- Cut out the soft, dark roots with clean, sharp shears. Clemson Extension’s disorders factsheet advises this when only a few roots are infected.
- Discard the old mix. UW–Madison says not to reuse potting mix or drainage water from a plant with root rot.
- Repot into fresh, sterile, well-draining mix. Use a clean pot with drainage holes and no gravel layer, which UW–Madison says can hinder drainage.
- Keep the pot close to the size of the remaining roots. UConn says Monstera tolerates being pot-bound far better than being overpotted.
- Disinfect shears and work surfaces afterwards. UW–Madison suggests a 10% bleach or detergent solution, or alcohol.
If most roots are dark and soft:
Clemson says a plant with mostly dead roots is better discarded. Before you do, look for a healthy stem section with a node and an aerial root. University of Minnesota Extension’s propagation guide explains that a cutting needs a node, because a leaf or petiole alone will not grow and will rot. Maryland Extension advises taking cuttings only from healthy tissue.
Skip the fungicide. UW–Madison does not recommend chemical fungicides for root rot on houseplants. Clemson notes they usually cost more than a new plant.
Aftercare
- Water again only when the top of the mix has dried. NC State Extension’s Monstera profile advises letting the top quarter to one-third dry between thorough waterings.
- Never leave the pot standing in drainage water. UConn and UW–Madison both stress this.
- Keep the plant warm, in bright light out of direct sun. NC State gives 16–29 °C (60–85 °F).
- Hold off on fertilizer until new roots and leaves appear.
Expect some damaged leaves to yellow and drop. Judge recovery by firm stems and healthy new leaves. If yellowing is your main symptom, our Monstera yellow leaves guide helps rule out other causes. White fuzz on the mix surface is a separate issue, covered in our moldy soil guide.
References
- UConn Home & Garden Education Center: Monstera deliciosa
- University of Maryland Extension: Root Rots of Indoor Plants
- Clemson Cooperative Extension, HGIC 2251: Houseplant Diseases & Disorders
- UW–Madison Extension: Root Rots of Houseplants
- University of Minnesota Extension: Propagating Monstera deliciosa
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Monstera deliciosa
- University of Maryland Extension: Diagnose Indoor Plant Problems
How this guide was put together: UConn Home & Garden Education Center, University of Maryland Extension, Clemson Extension, UW–Madison Extension, University of Minnesota Extension and NC State Extension guidance.