Plant care guide
Monstera Yellow Leaves: Wet Roots, Thirst, Light or Age?
Updated · First published
Why are my Monstera deliciosa leaves turning yellow?
Yellow leaves on a Monstera most often trace back to the root zone: mix that stays wet, or a pot left to dry out for too long. Too little light, too little fertilizer, sun or cold injury and sap-feeding pests also cause yellowing. One old lower leaf on an otherwise healthy plant is normal shedding.
What to do first
Note which leaves turned yellow, then push a finger into the mix and lift the pot. Wet and heavy means stop watering and check the roots; dry and light means water thoroughly. If the mix is fine, check light, feeding, drafts and leaf undersides.
A yellow leaf on your Monstera is worrying, but it is a symptom with several possible causes. Which leaves turned yellow, and what the potting mix feels like, narrow it down quickly. Check before you water again.
Clemson Extension’s houseplant disorders factsheet lists too little light, too little fertilizer, insects and mites as causes of yellowing. It adds that yellowing is most often a symptom of overwatering.
Read the pattern first
| What you see | Most likely cause |
|---|---|
| One or two of the oldest, lowest leaves, rest of plant healthy | Normal shedding |
| Yellowing on new and old leaves, wet or sour-smelling mix, soft stems | Too much water, root decline |
| Lower leaves yellow and crisp, light pot, mix pulled from the pot edge | Mix dried out for too long |
| Older leaves yellowing on a pot-bound plant that has not been fed | Nutrient shortage |
| Pale, washed-out plant in a dim spot, few new leaves | Too little light |
| Bleached or yellow patches on leaves facing a window, after a move | Sun injury |
| Fine pale speckling, sticky leaves, white cottony or brown bumps | Pests |
Normal shedding. Iowa State University Extension’s environmental diagnosis guide says a few older leaves on an otherwise healthy plant are nothing to worry about.
Too much water. Virginia Cooperative Extension’s watering guide lists yellowing on both new and old leaves, mushy leaves and stems, rotten-smelling mix and fungus gnats as overwatering signs. The UConn Monstera factsheet notes that Monstera is prone to root diseases, especially in colder seasons.
Too dry. The same Virginia guide lists brown, brittle leaves, soil shrunk from the pot edge and a light container. Clemson adds that lower leaves may yellow and die if a plant stays too dry for an extended time.
Too little light or fertilizer. NC State Extension’s Monstera profile asks for moderate brightness but not direct sun. Clemson links yellowing, browning and death of lower leaves to nitrogen or iron deficiency, especially in pot-bound plants.
Sun and cold. UConn warns that the large leaves burn easily when the plant moves to brighter light. It also reports cold damage after extended exposure below 7 °C (45 °F).
Pests. UConn lists mealybugs and soft scales, which cause yellowing and sticky honeydew, and spider mites, which leave fine white stippling. Check leaf undersides and stem joints.
What to do
If the mix is wet or smells sour:
- Stop watering. Empty any saucer or outer pot.
- Slide the plant out and look at the roots. UConn describes rotted roots as brown or black, soft and mushy, and easily pulled away.
- If roots are rotting, follow our Monstera root rot guide. Our root oxygen guide explains why wet, dense mix starves roots.
If the mix is dry and the pot is light:
- Water until it drains from the base. Virginia Cooperative Extension suggests two or three slow applications if water runs straight through.
- Do not leave the pot standing in water for more than 60 minutes.
- From now on, water thoroughly, then let the top quarter to one-third of the mix dry, as NC State advises.
If the roots and mix look fine:
- Move the plant to bright light out of direct sun. Penn State Extension’s Monstera article suggests a spot near a sunny window that avoids direct rays.
- Feed during active growth. Penn State suggests a balanced houseplant fertilizer through the growing season. UConn warns Monstera is easily burned by high soil salts, so follow the label.
- Keep it warm. NC State gives 16–29 °C (60–85 °F). Move it away from cold windows and drafts.
- Treat confirmed pests. Wipe off mealybugs and scale, and isolate the plant.
Watch the new leaves
A yellow leaf will not turn green again. Judge the fix by the next leaves that open. UW–Madison Extension’s Monstera article advises watering less in winter and acclimating the plant gradually to brighter light.
If yellowing started right after repotting, see our transplant shock guide. If leaves are spotted rather than evenly yellow, see Monstera brown spots.
References
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Monstera deliciosa
- UConn Home & Garden Education Center: Monstera deliciosa
- UW–Madison Extension: Swiss-Cheese Plant, Monstera deliciosa
- Penn State Extension: Monstera as a Houseplant
- Clemson Cooperative Extension, HGIC 2251: Houseplant Diseases & Disorders
- Virginia Cooperative Extension: Properly Watering Container Houseplants (SPES-804)
- Iowa State University Extension: Diagnosing Houseplant Problems from Improper Environmental Conditions
How this guide was put together: NC State Extension, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, UW–Madison Extension, Penn State Extension, Clemson Extension, Virginia Cooperative Extension and Iowa State University Extension guidance.