Plant care guide

Monstera Slow Growth: Season, Light, Roots or Feeding?

Updated · First published

Why is my Monstera deliciosa growing slowly?

Monstera deliciosa is a fast grower in good conditions, so a long stall usually means something is limiting it: winter, too little light, cold, a pot kept too dry or too wet, a root system that is cramped or rotting, or no feeding. Work through them in that order.

What to do first

Check the season and room temperature first, then light at the leaves. Then check the mix moisture and the roots. Feed only in active growth, repot only when roots fill the pot, and give the stem a support to climb.

A Monstera that has not put out a leaf in months is frustrating. NC State Extension’s Monstera profile lists its growth rate as rapid, so a long stall usually has a cause you can find. Change one thing at a time, so you can tell what worked.

Work through the causes in order

1. Season. Virginia Cooperative Extension’s watering guide notes that growth is most active in spring and summer and slowest in winter. A Monstera that pauses from late autumn to early spring may be fine.

2. Temperature. NC State gives 16–29 °C (60–85 °F). UW–Madison Extension’s Monstera article says plants do not grow below 10 °C (50 °F). Penn State Extension’s Monstera article adds that they abhor cold drafts. Check for a cold window or an air-conditioning vent.

3. Light. UW–Madison recommends bright light in summer and direct sun in winter. Penn State suggests bright light near a sunny window, but not direct sun. Long, stretched stems confirm it; see our leggy Monstera guide.

4. Water. UW–Madison notes that plants kept on the dry side grow slower. Too much water is worse. Maryland Extension’s root rot page lists poor growth and stunting among root rot symptoms. Push a finger into the mix and lift the pot before deciding which way to go.

5. Roots and pot size. UW–Madison says Monstera needs frequent repotting and ample root room for larger leaves. UConn’s Monstera factsheet adds a caution: repot only when roots reach the bottom and sides of the pot, and go up in size gradually. Monstera tolerates being pot-bound much better than being overpotted.

6. Feeding. UW–Madison advises fertilizing regularly from spring until fall. Penn State suggests a balanced houseplant fertilizer through the growing season. UConn warns that Monstera is easily burned by high soil salts.

7. Pests. UConn notes mealybugs and scale cause yellowing and stunted growth. Check stems and leaf undersides.

Quick checks

What you findWhat to do
Winter, healthy leaves, no damageWait for spring; water less
Cold room or drafty spotMove it somewhere warm and stable
Dim spot, stretched stemsMove it closer to a bright window, gradually
Mix dry for long periodsWater thoroughly when the top quarter to one-third is dry
Wet mix, dark soft rootsSee our Monstera root rot guide
Roots circling the pot bottomRepot one size larger in spring
Not fed during the growing seasonStart feeding at label rate

What to do

  1. Fix temperature and light first. Move the plant in steps, because UConn warns the leaves burn easily in sudden stronger light.
  2. Water by the mix, not the calendar. NC State advises watering thoroughly, then letting the top quarter to one-third dry. UW–Madison says to water less in winter.
  3. Feed in active growth only. University of Illinois Extension’s houseplant care page says to fertilize only when plants are actively growing, and warns that too much fertilizer can burn roots, especially in dim light.
  4. Repot only if the roots need it. Check the root ball before buying a bigger pot.
  5. Give it a support. UConn reports leaf size typically increases once vines attach to a stake or moss pole. NC State says sturdy support also stops the stems breaking.

If growth stopped right after repotting, see our transplant shock guide. If new leaves arrive but stay small and solid, see Monstera with no holes.

Judge it by the next leaf

Do not change everything at once. After one correction, give the plant time to produce a new leaf, then compare its size and spacing with the last one.

References

How this guide was put together: NC State Extension, UW–Madison Extension, Penn State Extension, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, Virginia Cooperative Extension, University of Maryland Extension and University of Illinois Extension guidance.

Other Monstera Deliciosa problems

Knowledge record: vc-dyodc