Plant care guide

Pothos Brown Spots: Edema, Cold, Sun or Leaf Spot?

Updated

Is brown spots overwatering edema the problem with my Pothos?

Brown spots on pothos come from wet roots, cold or heat injury, or a leaf disease. Raised, corky bumps under the leaf suggest edema; scattered patches in the middle of the leaf suggest cold; scorched variegated areas suggest sun or heat; wet-looking spots that spread suggest bacteria or fungi.

What to do first

Look at where the spots sit and whether they are spreading, then check the mix and roots. Let wet mix dry, move the plant away from cold glass, vents and direct sun, and remove spreading, water-soaked spots.

Brown spots on a pothos can mean anything from a cold window to a spreading infection. Most are not contagious, and the pattern usually tells you which one you have. Note where the spots sit, what they feel like, and whether new ones keep appearing.

Match the Pattern

What you seeLikely causeSource
Raised, corky bumps on leaf undersides that turn brownEdemaUMD
Scattered brown patches in the center of the leafCold or a sudden temperature dropUF/IFAS, Wisconsin
Burned patches only in the pale, variegated areasToo much light or heatUF/IFAS
Pale, bleached areas that turn brown and brittleDirect sunUMD
Black to brown, watery spots, often with yellow edgesBacterial leaf spotUMD
Irregular dark spots, leaves matted togetherRhizoctonia blightUF/IFAS
Whole leaves going dark brown to black, wet mixRoot rotUF/IFAS

Edema: Spots From Wet Roots

University of Maryland Extension describes edema as wart-like or crusty bumps or blisters on lower leaf surfaces (UMD: Edema). The bumps can turn brown and are often mistaken for disease or insect damage. It happens when roots absorb more water than the leaves lose.

UMD does not list pothos among its edema-prone plants. So confirm the pattern: corky bumps underneath, a mix that stays wet, and no spreading. UMD’s fix is more drying time between waterings, especially when the mix is cool and the air is warm.

Cold and Heat Injury

UF/IFAS lists scattered brown patches in the center of pothos leaves after a few hours at 1–4 °C (33–40 °F), or after abrupt temperature changes (UF/IFAS EP151). Wisconsin Extension describes the same patches, especially on plants growing vigorously.

UF/IFAS also lists burned, dead patches confined to variegated areas, caused by high light or heat. Those leaves cannot recover. UMD notes that sun-scorched leaves first look pale or bleached, then turn brown and brittle. Damage is worse when the mix is also dry. Our pothos sunburn guide covers this.

Physical injuries stay the same size. They do not spread to new leaves.

Leaf Spot Diseases

UMD describes bacterial spots on indoor plants as black to brown, often watery lesions (UMD: Bacterial leaf spots). They often sit between veins and look angular. They may have yellow margins or centers that fall out. Collapsed tissue is soft and smells rotten.

UF/IFAS describes Rhizoctonia blight on pothos as irregular, dark, dead spots. Leaves mat together and fungal strands may show (UF/IFAS PP340). The same publication notes that Phytophthora root rot can turn pothos leaves dark brown to black.

Our pothos bacterial infection guide covers bacterial spots, soft rot and wilt in detail.

What to Do

  1. Check the mix and roots. Wet mix plus soft, dark roots means the spots follow root damage. See our pothos root rot guide.
  2. Let wet mix dry. For edema, water again only once the mix has dried. Empty saucers and outer pots.
  3. Move the plant. Keep it off cold glass in winter, away from vents and out of direct sun.
  4. Remove spreading spots. UMD advises picking off and destroying individual spotted leaves. Clean scissors between cuts.
  5. Keep leaves dry. UMD advises watering early in the day so leaves dry quickly, and spacing plants for air circulation.
  6. Discard a systemic infection. UMD says systemically infected plants cannot be cured.

Prevention

Water when the mix has dried, not on a schedule. Keep the plant in bright, indirect light, away from heaters, air conditioners and cold windows. Water the mix, not the leaves.

Brown tissue will not turn green again. Judge success by the next new leaves. If they come in clean, the cause is gone. For brown edges rather than spots, see our pothos brown tips guide.

References

How this guide was put together: University of Maryland Extension, UF/IFAS Extension and University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension guidance.

Other Pothos problems

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Knowledge record: GR-0569