Plant care guide

Do Pothos Cuttings Need Rooting Hormone?

Updated

Why does my Pothos have rooting hormones?

Pothos cuttings do not need rooting hormone. Extension sources describe pothos as rooting easily in water or moist media within a few weeks, as long as each cutting has a node. Hormone is optional; a node, warmth, humidity and clean conditions matter more.

What to do first

Cut 8–15 cm (3–6 in) pieces with at least two nodes and root them in water or perlite in warm, bright, indirect light. If you use hormone, pour a little into a separate dish, dip lightly, and never dip into the original container.

No. Pothos is one of the easiest houseplants to root, and it does not need rooting hormone. NC State Extension notes that pothos vines root easily in water (NC State: Epipremnum aureum). University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension says the vines root in water or vermiculite within 3 to 4 weeks, with buds starting to grow in 1 to 2 weeks under warm temperatures (UW–Madison: Pothos).

If your cuttings are not rooting, hormone is rarely the missing piece. The node, the conditions and cleanliness are.

What Actually Makes a Pothos Cutting Root

A node. Clemson Extension says pothos cuttings root easily in soil or water but need at least one node to root properly (Clemson HGIC 1568). Commercial growers root very short pieces. UF/IFAS describes 2.5–4 cm (1–1½ in) stem cuttings with a node and an attached leaf, with buds breaking in 2–3 weeks and rooting in 3–4 weeks (UF/IFAS EP151). At home, a longer piece is more forgiving. See our pothos node selection guide.

Warmth, humidity and light. Iowa State University Extension’s stem cutting guide calls high humidity essential for rooting. It recommends:

  • Air at 18–24 °C (65–75 °F), with rooting media at 24–27 °C (75–80 °F) if you use a heat mat
  • Four to six hours of bright, indirect light; too little light slows rooting and too much can burn leaves under a cover
  • A loose plastic bag or dome over cuttings in media, not sealed tight

A clean, airy medium or clean water. Iowa State suggests perlite, alone or mixed with peat. For water rooting, it says to change the water once or twice a week and never let developing roots be exposed to air.

When Rooting Hormone Is Worth Using

Iowa State lists rooting hormone as an optional step: “treat cut end with rooting hormone if desired.” It explains that hormones promote root formation. The two synthetic auxins most often used are IBA (indolebutyric acid) and NAA (naphthaleneacetic acid).

On pothos, we would only reach for it when:

  • You are rooting in perlite or mix rather than water
  • You are rooting very short, single-node pieces
  • You already have the product for harder-to-root plants

How to Use It Without Causing Problems

Iowa State’s directions:

  1. Pour a small amount into a separate container. Never dip cuttings into the original container and never return leftover powder. Disease can spread this way.
  2. Dust or dip the cut end in powder, or dip it in a liquid product for a few seconds as the label directs.
  3. Do not over-apply. Too much rooting hormone can slow root development.
  4. Store it in its original container in a cool, dark place. Replace it after about two years, since it loses strength over time.

Water or Media?

Both work for pothos. Iowa State notes that water-grown roots are coarser and less adapted to potting soil. Cuttings potted from water may wilt, drop leaves or brown at the tips for a while. Pot them when roots are about 2.5 cm (1 in) long, and keep care consistent after potting. Wisconsin recommends planting several rooted cuttings together in one pot for a fuller plant.

If water-rooted cuttings go cloudy or green, see our pothos water propagation algae guide. For the full method, see our pothos propagation guide and the pothos hub.

References

How this guide was put together: Iowa State University Extension, University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension, UF/IFAS Extension, NC State Extension and Clemson Cooperative Extension guidance.

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Knowledge record: GR-0535