Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is one of the easiest houseplants to multiply. Iowa State University Extension puts it at the top of its list of easy plants to propagate, and NC State Extension notes that the vines root easily in water. Most failures come from one of three things: no node on the cutting, leaves rotting under water, or a rooted cutting struggling after it moves into soil.
This guide walks through each method step by step. If you only need to know where to cut, our pothos node guide covers that. For hormone questions, see do pothos cuttings need rooting hormone?
What you need to find on the vine
A node is the point where a leaf joins the stem. Pothos climbs with brown aerial roots, NC State says, and Wisconsin Extension notes these grow from the nodes and internodes. A small brown root nub often marks a good node.
Clemson Extension’s rule is simple: cuttings root easily in soil or water but need at least one node to root properly. Pick healthy, vigorous stems. Iowa State advises against propagating from plants with pests, disease or mottled, weak growth.
Choose a method
| Method | Best for | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Stem cutting in water | Watching roots form | Roots in 3 to 4 weeks (Wisconsin); coarser roots to pot up (Iowa State) |
| Stem cutting in moist mix or perlite | Skipping the move from water to soil | Most stem cuttings root in 3 to 6 weeks (Iowa State) |
| Single-node cutting | Getting many plants from one vine | Buds break in 2–3 weeks, roots in 3–4 weeks in commercial production (UF/IFAS) |
| Layering | Filling out the parent pot, no cutting needed | Roots form while the vine stays attached (NC State) |
Method 1: rooting cuttings in water
- Cut. Take 7.5–15 cm (3–6 in) of stem with at least two nodes, as Iowa State recommends. Missouri Botanical Garden says to cut just below a node; a stub of stem left below it often rots.
- Strip. Remove the leaves from the lowest one or two nodes. University of Vermont Extension stresses that no leaves should sit below the water surface.
- Place. Stand the cutting in room-temperature water in indirect light (Vermont).
- Refresh. Iowa State says to change the water once or twice a week and never let developing roots dry out. Vermont adds: replace it whenever it turns cloudy.
- Pot up. Iowa State pots water cuttings when roots are about 2.5 cm (1 in) long. Missouri Botanical Garden uses 2.5–5 cm (1–2 in).
If the jar turns green or slimy, read our pothos water propagation algae guide before you discard anything.
Method 2: rooting cuttings in mix or perlite
Iowa State’s stem cutting guide recommends perlite, or perlite mixed with peat, in a clean pot with drainage at least 5 cm (2 in) deep.
- Moisten the medium before you start.
- Make a hole with a pencil and insert the cutting so at least one node is buried and no leaves are.
- Water, then let the pot drain for a few minutes.
- Cover with a loose plastic bag or dome. Iowa State says not to seal it tight. Vermont says to open it if moisture drips inside.
- Keep the pot in bright, indirect light for 4 to 6 hours a day, at 18–24 °C (65–75 °F) (Iowa State).
- Check often and re-moisten the medium if it dries.
New growth is the first sign of roots. Vermont suggests a gentle tug: resistance means roots are forming.
Method 3: single-node cuttings
Commercial growers stretch one vine into many plants. UF/IFAS describes the usual method as stem cuttings 2.5–4 cm (1–1½ in) long, each with a node and an attached leaf.
The NC State Extension Gardener Handbook calls this a leaf-bud cutting and names devil’s ivy as an example. Bury the bud about 2.5 cm (1 in) deep and leave the leaf exposed. Then treat the tray like Method 2: moist medium, a loose cover and bright, indirect light.
Method 4: layering a vine without cutting it
Layering roots the vine while the parent still feeds it. NC State describes compound (serpentine) layering for pothos: bend a long vine to the medium, alternately burying and exposing sections, and wound the underside of the buried parts.
Iowa State’s simple layering works the same way with one node. Pin a node 5–10 cm (2–4 in) deep in an adjacent pot of mix with a bent paper clip. Do not bury leaves. Cut the stem from the parent once it is firmly rooted. Wisconsin Extension also lists air layering for pothos.
When to propagate and how fast
Iowa State says most houseplants can be propagated any time of year, with early spring through summer best. Warmth speeds things up: Wisconsin’s 3-to-4-week figure assumes warm temperatures. In a cool room, Iowa State suggests a heat mat to keep the medium at 24–27 °C (75–80 °F).
Too little light slows rooting, and cuttings may rot or dry out before roots form (Iowa State).
Potting up the new plants
- Plant several together. Wisconsin Extension recommends several rooted cuttings in one pot for a fuller plant.
- Choose a snug pot. Missouri Botanical Garden uses a pot with just enough space for the roots.
- Water and drain. Water until it runs from the bottom, then do not let the pot sit in its saucer (Missouri Botanical Garden).
- Then let it dry a little. Once established, Clemson says to let the soil dry between waterings.
- Feed later. Iowa State begins regular feeding once the new plant is established. NC State fertilizes every other month, except in winter.
Troubleshooting
| What you see | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| No roots after weeks | No node on the cutting (Clemson), or too little light or warmth (Iowa State) | Re-cut below a node; move to brighter, warmer spot |
| Soft, dark stem end in water | Rot from leaves or stem below a node in water (Missouri Botanical Garden) | Trim to firm tissue, strip submerged leaves, refresh water |
| Wilting or a dropped leaf after potting | Water-grown roots adjusting to soil (Iowa State) | Keep care steady; it should recover |
| Mushy roots after potting | Mix kept too wet; NC State links overwatering to root rot | Let the mix dry between waterings; see our pothos root rot guide |
| Cutting dries under a cover | Too much light under plastic (Iowa State) | Move out of direct sun |
Pets and skin
The ASPCA lists golden pothos as toxic to dogs and cats. It contains insoluble calcium oxalates, which cause mouth irritation, drooling and vomiting. Wisconsin Extension notes the sap can irritate skin. Keep cuttings and jars out of reach of pets. For general care, see our pothos care guide, and for other plants, our houseplant propagation methods guide.
References
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Epipremnum aureum
- Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC 1568: How to Grow Pothos Indoors
- University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension: Pothos, Epipremnum aureum
- UF/IFAS Extension EP151: Cultural Guidelines for Commercial Production of Interiorscape Epipremnum
- Iowa State University Extension and Outreach: How to Propagate Houseplants by Stem Tip Cuttings
- NC State Extension Gardener Handbook: Chapter 13, Propagation
- Missouri Botanical Garden: Rooting Cuttings in Water
- University of Vermont Extension, D. J. Benoit: More, Please: Propagating Houseplants
- ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center: Golden Pothos