Pothos Nodes: Which Ones to Pick and Where to Cut

A pothos cutting that sits in water for weeks without roots usually has one problem: no node below the water line. The node is where new roots and shoots come from. Pick the right one and cut in the right place, and pothos is one of the easiest houseplants to multiply.

What a Node Looks Like

University of Vermont Extension defines a node as the bump where the leaf meets the stem. Missouri Botanical Garden notes that roots grow most easily from this point (MBG).

On pothos, look for these markers:

• A leaf stalk wrapping the stem
• A slight swelling or ring on the stem
• A brown nub or a short aerial root

Penn State Extension notes that pothos aerial roots develop at each node (Penn State). A node with a root nub already showing is a good choice.

The bare stretch of stem between two nodes is the internode. It is useful for holding the cutting upright, but do not rely on it to root.

Why a Node Matters

Clemson Extension says pothos cuttings root easily in soil or water but need at least one node to root properly (Clemson HGIC 1568).

A leaf on its own is not enough. NC State Extension’s propagation chapter explains that leaf cuttings lack an axillary bud. Most plants then make only a few roots or simply decay (NC State Extension Gardener Handbook). The bud at the node is what grows into a new vine.

Choose the Right Stem

• Healthy and firm. Avoid vines that are yellowing, soft or spotted. University of Maryland Extension advises taking stem cuttings only from healthy tissue (UMD).
• Well watered. Iowa State suggests watering the parent plant the day before, so cuttings start fully hydrated.
• At least two nodes. Iowa State recommends stem pieces 7.5–15 cm (3–6 in) long with at least two nodes (Iowa State). One node goes into the water or mix; the leaves above stay out.

Stem tips and sections from lower on the vine both work. Iowa State notes that stem sections will not root upside down. An angled cut at the bottom end helps you remember which way is down.

Where to Cut

1. Clean your scissors or knife before you start.
2. Cut just below a node. Missouri Botanical Garden says a stub of stem left below the node often rots.
3. Strip the lowest leaf. Vermont Extension advises removing leaves from the bottom one or two nodes. No leaves should sit below the water.
4. Insert the bare node. In mix, Iowa State says to bury at least one node and no leaves.

On the parent plant, Penn State advises cutting just above a node when trimming a vine.

Single-Node Cuttings

To get many plants from one vine, cut it into single-node pieces. UF/IFAS describes the usual commercial method: stem cuttings 2.5–4 cm (1–1½ in) long, each with a node and an attached leaf (UF/IFAS EP151). In production, buds break in 2–3 weeks and roots form in 3–4 weeks.

NC State calls this a leaf-bud cutting. Bury the bud up to 2.5 cm (1 in) deep and leave the leaf exposed. Choose nodes with a well-developed bud.

After the Cut

Iowa State says to change rooting water once or twice a week and pot cuttings when roots are about 2.5 cm (1 in) long. Our pothos propagation guide covers water, mix, single-node cuttings and layering step by step. For rooting powders, see do pothos cuttings need rooting hormone?

If a node turns soft or dark in water, trim back to firm tissue and refresh the water. Our water propagation algae guide helps tell harmless green film from rot.

References

• Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC 1568: How to Grow Pothos Indoors
• Missouri Botanical Garden: Rooting Cuttings in Water
• Iowa State University Extension: How to Propagate Houseplants by Stem Tip Cuttings
• NC State Extension Gardener Handbook: Chapter 13, Propagation
• UF/IFAS Extension EP151: Cultural Guidelines for Commercial Production of Interiorscape Epipremnum
• University of Vermont Extension: More, Please: Propagating Houseplants
• Penn State Extension: Pothos as a Houseplant
• University of Maryland Extension: Root Rots of Indoor Plants