Plant care guide
Spider Plant Brown Tips: Tap Water, Salts, Dry Air or Thirst?
Updated · First published
Why does my Spider plant have brown tips?
Brown tips on a spider plant usually come from fluoride or chlorine in tap water, salts from fertilizer building up in the pot, very dry air, or soil left to dry out too far. Strong sun and soggy soil can also cause it. Often several of these act together.
What to do first
Switch to rainwater or distilled water, flush the pot to wash out salts, cut back on fertilizer, keep the soil from drying out completely, and move the plant out of hot sun and away from heaters. Trim the brown tips if you like; judge the fix on new leaves.
Brown tips are the most common complaint about spider plants. They look bad, but they are rarely dangerous. Iowa State University Extension’s brown tips FAQ names spider plant as one of the species where brown tips are especially common.
The browned tissue will not turn green again. The goal is clean tips on the leaves that grow next.
The usual causes
Fluoride and chlorine in tap water. NC State Extension’s spider plant profile advises avoiding tap water, because chlorine and fluorides can cause leaf tip burn. The RHS spider plant growing guide and UW–Madison Extension’s spider plant article say the same. Iowa State notes the damage builds over an extended period on sensitive species.
Fertilizer salts. Clemson Extension’s spider plant factsheet says leaf tip burn is caused by too much fertilizer or water high in soluble salts. Clemson’s disorders factsheet adds that a white to grey crust on the soil or pot rim is a sign of salt buildup.
Dry air. Iowa State calls low humidity the most likely cause of brown tips on houseplants, especially in winter. The RHS warns about placing spider plants near radiators, which dry the air.
Dry soil. Clemson lists excessively dry soil. Iowa State points to inconsistent watering, especially letting plants dry out too long between waterings.
Strong sun and overwatering. The RHS adds too much bright sunlight, and over- or underwatering, as causes.
Sort out which one you have
| Clue | Points to |
|---|---|
| You water from the tap and nothing else seems wrong | Fluoride or chlorine |
| White or grey crust on the soil or rim; regular feeding | Fertilizer salts |
| Winter, heating on, plant near a radiator or vent | Dry air |
| Soil often bone-dry before you water; pale, dull leaves | Dry soil |
| Browning on the side facing a sunny window | Sun |
| Soil wet for days, yellowing and soft growth | Overwatering; check the roots |
The RHS notes that pale, dull leaves usually mean the plant needs more water, and that spider plants revive quickly after a thorough drink.
What to do
- Change the water. Use rainwater, as the RHS suggests, or distilled water, as UW–Madison suggests. Clemson suggests letting tap water stand at room temperature for 24 hours before use. Where water quality is suspected, Iowa State simply says to use a different water source.
- Flush out salts. Clemson advises drenching the pot periodically with water to leach salts, emptying the saucer, scraping off salt crusts and topping up with fresh soil.
- Feed less. Clemson says to feed only during active growth and follow the label. NC State adds that over-fertilizing reduces plantlet formation. UW–Madison says feeding every 3–4 months is usually enough.
- Water evenly. Clemson advises letting the soil dry out briefly between waterings, and checking it often. The RHS says not to leave the pot standing in water.
- Raise humidity. NC State suggests a humidifier or a tray of pebbles and water. Move the plant away from heaters.
- Fix the light. Clemson and the RHS both recommend bright, indirect light. Midday sun can scorch the leaves; see our spider plant sunburn guide.
- Repot a crowded plant. Clemson notes the thick, fleshy roots can eventually crack a pot. Repotting into fresh compost also removes old salts.
Tidy the plant
Snip off brown tips with clean scissors to improve the look. Iowa State warns that new browning will follow if the cause is not fixed.
For a badly damaged plant with many brown, split leaves, the RHS suggests cutting all the foliage down to 5–8 cm (2–3 in). A new flush of growth should come from the centre if the plant is otherwise cared for well.
If the plant is crowded or tired, potting up its plantlets is often easier; see our spider plant propagation guide. Our article on tap water for houseplants covers water quality in more detail.
References
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Chlorophytum comosum
- Clemson Cooperative Extension, HGIC 1513: Spider Plant
- RHS: How to grow spider plants
- Iowa State University Extension: Why does my houseplant have brown leaf tips and edges?
- UW–Madison Extension: Spider plant, Chlorophytum comosum
- Clemson Cooperative Extension, HGIC 2251: Houseplant Diseases & Disorders
How this guide was put together: NC State Extension, Clemson Extension, RHS, Iowa State University Extension and UW–Madison Extension guidance.