An Alocasia that drops leaves in winter is often doing what it is meant to do. The RHS says these plants need a period of dormancy in winter, in cooler, drier conditions. They may lose some foliage, which the RHS calls “nothing to worry about”, and produce fresh leaves when they come back into growth in spring.
The risk is in how the plant is treated while it rests. Watering a leafless plant as if it were growing is the quickest way to rot it. This guide covers how to tell rest from trouble, how to look after a resting plant or stored corm, and what to change in spring.
Why Alocasias rest
Alocasia is a genus of tuberous perennials in the arum family, from tropical and subtropical Asia and eastern Australia (NC State). Its underground parts store reserves. NC State notes that garden-grown tubers can be lifted and stored over winter, and Missouri Botanical Garden describes rhizomatous and tuberous types.
Indoors, the RHS pattern is simple. In summer, Alocasias can grow fast, sometimes producing a leaf a week. In winter, give them cooler, drier conditions and let them slow down.
Dormant, cold-damaged or rotting?
Leaf loss has more than one cause. Work through these checks before changing anything.
| What you see | Points to | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Gradual leaf loss in late autumn or winter; base firm | Normal winter rest | RHS |
| Leaves collapse after a cold window, draught or trip home | Cold damage; keep above 10 °C (50 °F) | RHS; Clemson says chilling causes leaf drop |
| Leaf drop soon after a move or repotting | Change of environment; Clemson says this drop should last about three weeks | Clemson |
| Yellowing and wilting with wet mix; roots brown-black and mushy; dark crown | Root or crown rot | Maryland Extension |
| Fine speckling or webbing in dry, heated air | Spider mites | RHS, NC State |
To check the base, ease the plant from its pot. Maryland Extension describes rotting roots as brown to black and soft or mushy, and notes the crown may brown or blacken. Healthy roots and a firm base mean the plant is resting, not dying. If you find rot, see our root rot guide. If a damaged plant has offsets or loose corms, our Alocasia pup and corm guide covers potting them separately.
Caring for a resting plant indoors
- Temperature. The RHS says cooler, but above 10 °C (50 °F). Missouri Botanical Garden overwinters potted plants in a humid, cool spot around 16–18 °C (60–65 °F).
- Water. The RHS reduces watering to a minimum while the plant is dormant and warns that overwatering then can rot the roots. NC State and Missouri Botanical Garden also say to reduce watering in winter.
- Feeding. The RHS feeds only from April to October. Skip fertilizer while the plant rests.
- Draughts. The RHS warns that cold draughts can be damaging, particularly in winter.
- Humidity. The RHS notes that low humidity can brown leaf edges and attract red spider mites. Missouri Botanical Garden keeps overwintering plants humid. See our Alocasia humidity guide.
- Pests. NC State says Alocasias are prone to spider mites. Check the remaining leaves, including the undersides, regularly. Our Alocasia Polly spider mite guide covers treatment.
Remove fading or dead leaves by cutting them off at the base (RHS). Wear gloves: the RHS says the sap can irritate skin.
Storing corms from garden-grown elephant ears
If your Alocasia spent summer outdoors, there are two ways to bring it through winter.
- Keep it in its pot. NC State brings potted plants inside before the first fall frost and reduces watering. Missouri Botanical Garden says rhizomatous varieties are best left in pots year-round.
- Lift and store tubers. Missouri Botanical Garden lifts tuberous types after the first fall frost, shakes off loose soil, dries them, and stores them somewhere cool and dry. Clemson cuts back the foliage, lets the corm dry for several days, and stores it in an open container lightly covered with dry peat moss.
Clemson gives 7–13 °C (45–55 °F) as the ideal storage temperature and warns not to let corms freeze. It also notes corms left in containers outdoors are more exposed to freezing than those in the ground.
Bringing it back into growth in spring
None of the sources we used gives a reliable timeline for regrowth, and it will vary with the plant and the room. What they do give is the conditions growth needs. Change these gradually as spring arrives.
- Warm it up. The RHS says Alocasias need at least 16 °C (60 °F) during the growing season. NC State says they grow best with daytime temperatures of 20–25 °C (68–77 °F).
- Give it light. The RHS recommends bright but indirect light; strong sun can scorch the leaves. In lower light, growth is much slower.
- Water as growth resumes. The RHS waters as needed from April to October, once the top 5 cm (2 in) of compost is dry. Increase watering as new leaves appear, not before.
- Start feeding. Once the plant is growing, the RHS feeds with a general liquid fertilizer from April to October at the label rate.
- Repot only if needed. The RHS checks for overcrowded roots and repots in spring, into a pot only about 5 cm (2 in) wider. Wear gloves.
- Divide if crowded. The RHS separates offsets in spring and divides the rhizome in late spring or early summer. See the corm and pup guide.
Replanting stored corms
Clemson plants corms out in spring after the last frost. NC State and Missouri Botanical Garden note that corms or tubers can be started indoors in pots first, then moved outside after the last frost. Use moist, well-drained mix (NC State) and keep watering light until growth starts, since the RHS links overwatering of resting plants to rot.
What not to do
- Do not water a leafless plant on a summer schedule. The RHS links overwatering during dormancy to root rot.
- Do not feed to force growth. The RHS feeds only in the growing season.
- Do not let it get cold. The RHS minimum is 10 °C (50 °F) at all times.
- Do not leave cold-stored corms to freeze (Clemson).
Pets
The ASPCA lists Alocasia as toxic to dogs, cats and horses. It contains insoluble calcium oxalates, which cause mouth pain, drooling and vomiting. Keep removed leaves and stored corms away from pets. For year-round care, see our Alocasia care guide and the Alocasia hub.
References
- Royal Horticultural Society: How to grow alocasias
- NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox: Alocasia
- Missouri Botanical Garden Plant Finder: Alocasia (group)
- Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC, B. H. Smith: Fun with Elephant Ears in the Garden
- Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC: Houseplant Diseases & Disorders
- University of Maryland Extension: Root Rots of Indoor Plants
- ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center: Alocasia